Saturday, May 30, 2020

Launch

Launch is an optimistic word. It is movement. Initiation. Upward and onward. Going places. It is May 30 and some historic launches are underway this week:

  • Many more local governments have launched a reopening campaign for Covid19 stricken areas to resume some sort of normalcy. 
  • Protesters have launched demonstrations, some violent and destructive, supporting the Black Lives Matter movement after the horrific murder of African-American George Floyd by white policemen in Minneapolis. 
  • President Trump has launched a series of controversial orders and plans concerning social media and our relationships with Hong Kong and the World Health Organization. 
  • Finally, Elon Musk, entrepreneur and CEO of SpaceX, together with NASA will make the second attempt this week to launch two astronauts into space today. The launch is the first in nine years for NASA and the first commercially built ship to carry humans.
It's been a dizzying news week, and not necessarily promoting optimism. We are in the throes of change and it may be threatening our comfort levels. 

Wednesday, May 13, 2020

What a Time to be Alive

Mother's Day Selfie
It's mid-May 2020 and feels like 2023. Haha. Most of the world is still in Covid -19 lockdown. President Trump is allowing US governors to use discretion for reopening states. Florida's Governor DeSantis is being hailed as a visionary and true leader. His ability to flatten the curve, preserve health and curtail deaths is exemplary, especially considering the vulnerable demographic of the state. Florida beaches, restaurants, stores, hair and nail salons are slowly opening under CDC guidelines for social distancing. Doctors can resume elective procedures. What a time to be alive!
Marco Resident's Beach reopened 4/30









We didn't have much in the way of April showers, but May flowers are just beautiful. There's nothing quite like the bright orange Poinciana trees in full bloom all around the island. We've been appreciating the Spring flora at the golf course and on the bikes because there's nothing else to do. Lol.

Zoom has become a regular source of joy in our lives now. Between calls with friends and family near and far, we are so grateful to be able to laugh and visit via the screens. Will came down for a Mother's Day brunch at ICC and a sleepover. We miss golfing with Will and can't wait until ICC opens up the tee sheets for immediate family again.

Poinciana in bloom at ICC
It is a difficult time for many people. Little frustrations become magnified in these deprived conditions. Small disappointments become big, infuriating setbacks. The Covid crisis is definitely not bringing people together. In fact, it is fueling suspicion, anxiety, separation and distance. The political divide is increasingly more pronounced as people look to the government for direction. By and large, people are reclusive, sad and mad.

It's not always easy but we must try to focus on the beauty of the moment.

Peaceful easy feeling at ICC

Sunday, April 26, 2020

Safe at Home

Easter Bouquet
The social-distancing effort to flatten-the-curve seems to be effective. Slowly but surely, the cases of Covid19 are decreasing across the country. Luckily, the Marco cases have remained low throughout the month of April. We currently have 12 reported cases of coronavirus and zero deaths in Marco.

Pool Zoom
Despite the tedium of isolation, time has been flying by. We enjoyed a sleepover with young Will for Easter. The bunny was good to all of us. My Easter bouquet stayed fresh for nearly two weeks. Will continues to work on the frontlines at UPS with loads heavier than usual for this time of year. We're all so happy to be in the warm climes of SWFL. It is still pretty cold up north, making for a tough quarantine indoors all the time.

Bill has been doing weekly Zoom calls with his partners. They really get a kick out of their poolside gatherings.

Lobster& fennel salad with Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc
We have been enjoying an array of meals, treats and sweets coming out of our kitchen. Bill has a sour dough bread starter cooking on the counter. We experiment with new cuisines and so look forward to weekend cocktail concoctions. Our bike rides continue to offer escape and exercise. The golf course is still packed with snow birds delaying their trips up north.

Lipstick and jewelry for wine dinner
We've been supporters of ICCs wine dinners throughout the year. This month, due to circumstances, was a carryout with virtual discussions of the wine and food pairings. It was super fun. We picked up a big box with a three course meal served on china, along with three wines. Our hosts online provided commentary as we enjoyed the pairings. Bill and I dressed up for the occasion and I wore my diamond penguin from Antarctica in honor of National Penguin Day Saturday. And could this be the last lockdown Sunday? May 1st seems to be the date for starting up the economy. Let's hope!

Monday, April 13, 2020

My Nightstand Update

Reading time used to be mostly a bedtime activity, but now, with coronavirus isolation and social distancing rules, reading time is anytime. I just breezed through "American Dirt" without even a blog mention under On My Nightstand. It was a heavy and heart-wrenching read, but a real page-turner. At times, I even dreaded to pick it up because of the violent visuals. Any book I finish is a good book. There are some that never make it to My Nightstand updates.

Covid19 vs. Seasonal Flu

Measures to curtail the spread of coronavirus have placed the global economy into something like a medically induced coma. Stories of joblessness and business failures continue to grow as a result of the global shutdown. The irony is that the Wuhan flu pandemic appears to be far less fatal than the average global flu. Here's a good article on where we stand as of April 10.

H/T Powerline Blog (click to enlarge)

As the World Turns




Frozen in time
Pool noodle to stop ball in hole

It's been a wild ride. Back from Africa on March 7th, and in less than a week, our life turned upside down. Covid19, or the Chinese Flu as Trump likes to say, has taken hold of 180-plus countries and global leaders have shut down the world. It took nearly a week into April before I realized my kitchen calendar needed a flip. No need for a day planner. Every event has been cancelled. Every event.

Social distancing has become the mandate for most of the world attempting to curtail the contagious nature of coronavirus. Governments have dictated what is essential and what is not. WFH (working from home) is the hottest acronym and home schoolers and parent teachers are losing their minds. The one bit of normalcy is the golf course. Yes, the only game in town really. Beaches and restaurants have been closed since mid-March, but golf is still an option. There have been plenty of modifications to the rules of play, but it's better than not playing at all. If you can get a tee time.

We have all downloaded the Zoom app by now.
Zoom with the six chicks









Most of us didn't really know what Zoom was until a Google search provided clues to the popular video conferencing tool. With nothing really to do, yeast and other baking ingredients have disappeared from store shelves. People are hoarding all sorts of items, but most comical: toilet paper. Go figure.

The weather has been beautiful. Between the bike rides and walks, daily exercise is keeping us sane. Easter was so uplifting (no fun intended). Will joined us for dinner in Marco and we video conferenced with the rest of the family. It was the next best thing to being together. Gratitude takes on new meaning during these challenging times.

Chalk art at the park Easter weekend

Saturday, March 14, 2020

Happy Pie Day Recipe: Butterscotch Mousse Pie

State Road Restaurant herb garden
State Road Restaurant on Martha’s Vineyard was one of our favorite go-to spots for a special dinner or fabulous burger at the bar. I would regularly order the smoked butterscotch pudding for dessert. I have repeatedly tried to duplicate the amazing depth of flavors in that treat, to no avail. In honor of International Pie Day, I present a recipe that may get me closer to recreating that unforgettable memory of deliciousness.

Sunday, March 8, 2020

Home to All Corona All the Time

New screensaver in background of coronavirus search stats
It was a long journey home from South Africa. We spent 20 hours on two planes and plenty of hours waiting for two planes.

Now it's time to catch up on the news. I see that it's all about the coronavirus, which continues to plague the world and haunts the Chinese with considerable backlash. Like most news, the hype evolves around fear and sensationalizing the mundane. There is some worldly good from all of this corona publicity. First, the world now knows how to properly wash hands and, second, it has been sufficiently educated on historical flu patterns and statistics. I'm thinking we'll all be a little healthier after this schooling and, tbh, I think this too shall pass.

Play it safe and take care. Thank Sweet Jesus regularly for all your blessings.

Saturday, March 7, 2020

Go to Africa

The monkeys were goofing around in the trees near the outdoor shower as Bill soaped up before our Friday departure. I decided to take an indoor shower. Haha.

As the final stragglers made their way to the idling airport shuttle, the staff at Makanyi were in friendly formation, ready to embrace us with warm farewells. And so we begin the long journey home.

There is no doubt that the AmaWaterways African adventure was among the most unique and enjoyable travel experience for each person on our tour. It combined luxurious accommodations, seasoned hospitality and top shelf food and beverage service with the privilege and safety of viewing magnificent creatures in their natural habitats.

If you get a chance go to Africa!

Friday, March 6, 2020

A Wild Day in the Wild

Mike was the first one to notice the pack of wild dogs hanging around the watering hole while he was having coffee. Sean, the guide, made it a point to track the dogs on our morning game drive. We followed the dogs for awhile, found some hyena, wildebeest and impala but witnessed no real interaction among the animals. We waited patiently while the dogs snoozed, until finally, the elephants scared them away with a loud demonstration of machismo.

Sean jumped on a lead and did a "Ferrari Safari" for a surprise: a pride of lions. There were six large females and five cubs hidden under a tree taking a morning nap. Super sweet. We left the lions and had a nice coffee break with Amarula and little turtles before returning to camp for breakfast and a massage.

We were back tracking the dogs on our dusk game drive and experienced the thrill of the hunt and the excitement of a kill. The ten dogs methodically tracked an impala, killed it and devoured it within minutes. It was scary and emotional for us to witness the frenzy just feet away from the bloody mess. Once again, hyena and elephants were in on the action and it was a nail-biting scene of wildness.

We moved on after quite the show and we were somewhat late to a sunset goodbye cocktail party in the bush. A lovely surprise and beautiful setting was prepared in honor of our last night. On our way back to camp in the dark we were treated to a final sighting: a leopard right outside our gate. Dinner was enhanced by joyful enthusiasm and lively conversation, celebrating such an incredible day in the wild.

Thursday, March 5, 2020

Rare and Beautiful Surroundings

Up at the crack of dawn Wednesday, the Makanyi lodge safari squad were greeted with coffee and warm muffins on the deck before climbing up on the Range Rovers for an early adventure in the bush.

Within the first fifteen minutes, we were chasing down a couple of rhinos. We were so grateful to sit and observe the enormous creatures for awhile. The perfect weather and amazing wildlife all around makes for wonderful excursions. The sightings of common and rare animals are equally thrilling. We are all so happy to be apart of this great trip.

With hours between game drives, the Makanyi lodge is a comfortable and relaxing respite for downtime with plenty of food, books, devices, random animal sightings and spa treatments. A real crowd pleaser.

The late afternoon game drive introduced us to one of the most prized sightings in the area: the endangered pangolin. It is the world's most poached and trafficked animal because of its keratin scales. Sean, our guide, and Lux (aka Lucky), our spotter, continued to meander through the wild and shared all sorts of information on our sightings. They found the perfect watering hole, filled with frolicking hippos, for sunset cocktails.

Back at the lodge, the fire pit was ablaze and provided the perfect warm welcome to our African-themed buffet dinner on the deck.

Wednesday, March 4, 2020

Nature and Whispers

 We said goodbyes at Joburg airport to the five people on our tour heading to other locales. After a short flight to Hoedspruit airport, the remaining group was divided between two camps. Twelve of us going to Makanyi Private Game Lodge were crammed into a van and endured a very uncomfortable hour-plus journey through remote South African reserves. Once at Makanyi, a luxurious oasis in Timbavati Private Nature Preserve, adjacent to Kruger National Park, we were greeted with warm hospitality and an ambience of creatures and creature comforts. 

Everyone was exuberantly blown-away by the rich accommodations at Makanyi and gleefully reconvened for a civilized lunch overlooking an animal’s watering hole off the deck.

We embarked on a sunset game drive just after 4:30pm. Two guides and a spotter indulged us in quality time as we observed our first leopards in the wild. We also had our first glimpse of rhinos, too. Traveling by Land Rover is super fun! Who doesn’t love forging their own path in life? TBH, I’m in heaven surrounded by nature and whispers. 

Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Sadness in Soweto

Quite a few travelers in our group opted to lounge around the beautiful Fairlawns Boutique Hotel on Monday rather than participate in a planned tour of Soweto. It was a dark, cold and rainy day; perfectly suited for viewing the depressed southwestern townships of Joburg.

AmaWaterways has a special connection to Kliptown, the oldest residential district of Soweto. And from the looks of it, the poorest. Ama has been contributing to the efforts of a goodwill organization, Kliptown Youth Program (KYP), which provides help to young people byway of extra-curricular activities centered around skill development.

It was a heartfelt presentation and tour of the KYP community, leaving many visitors with a conflicted emotional burden. Helplessness, sorrow and gratitude were all relevant feelings as we witnessed primitive living conditions, situations and potential solutions.

The Final Day in Joburg

The Monday morning tour of Kliptown provoked thoughtful contemplation of our riches and beauty in the US. The tour group gradually recovered from the depths of Joburg's seedy underbelly and came together for a delightful lunch break at Chez Alina in Soweto. The restaurant offered another wonderful story of people emerging from repression and achieving personal success and bringing others along. Lunch was prepared and served by an enterprising group of individuals and it was delicious. We were feeling all the feels as we were entertained with music and dancing and dessert.

Our group divided up after lunch, with half going to the Apartheid Museum and the others going to Cambanos Curio Centre for some retail therapy.

Back at the hotel, there was just enough time to change for dinner and enjoy a lecture on the gold and diamond legacies of Johannesburg.

Sunday, March 1, 2020

Back to Joburg

 The men insisted that Lookout Café was a must-see. As the women missed afternoon beers at the café Saturday after the Falls, we were all in for Sunday morning breakfast. It was totally worth the visit. The food was off, but the venue’s decor and magnificent view justified the cost of the meal. 

Back on board South African airlines, we left Zimbabwe for Johannesburg Sunday afternoon. The Fairlawns Boutique Hotel was just as welcoming as last week. 

We six went to the Butcher Shop in Sandton for dinner and loads of laughs and then a nightcap at the hotel before calling it a long travel day.

Zimbabwe Adventures

Sopping wet but totally stoked by the Falls experience Saturday afternoon, the ladies walked back to the hotel for dry clothes and the men opted for beers at the Lookout Café. Patty arranged for a shopping excursion to a crocodile farm and then we all met for lunch at the Three Monkeys Restaurant in town. Bill ditched us for a helicopter ride over the Falls and the rest of us walked back to the hotel with another shopping detour.

With little time to rest, we were back on the bus for a short ride to the banks of the Zambezi River. A Sundowner boat was waiting to take us on a sunset booze cruise. We all were intrigued by a guest speaker telling the fascinating life story of famed explorer David Livingstone. The beautiful sunset was a bonus, too.

A Wonder of the World

The Saturday buffet at the hotel included a fine international assortment of traditional breakfast fare. All nourished and ready to go, our small group walked less than a mile to the entrance of the Victoria Falls footpath. We enjoyed the morning getting drenched by the powerful sprays while sightseeing along the longest curtain of falling water on earth. Not only were the Falls mesmerizing, they were thunderously enchanting and ever present by all senses.

It was so satisfying to be surrounded by people of all nationalities, united in awe, wonder and the majesty of nature. A feeling of peace on earth,
if only for a short spell through a rain forest.

Four Countries in One Day


Disembarkment from the Zambezi Queen was swift and smooth Friday morning. Once again we had to go through immigration checks in Namibia and Botswana before our bus journey to Zimbabwe. We were expecting a long passport process at the Zimbabwe border, but were pleasantly surprised by minimal chaos. 

Arrival at Victoria Falls Hotel was civilized. A stately and beautiful property with old English decor and amenities. Baboons were abundant in the lovely gardens and their antics lightened-up the travel day mood. 

Bushtracks provided the evening’s entertainment byway of an antique train ride over the Zambezi River and into Zambia, our fourth country of the day. We enjoyed cocktails, a light meal and a short hike to our first overlook of the Falls. 

Friday, February 28, 2020

No Internet on Zambezi Queen

We were welcomed back to The Zambezi Queen Wednesday afternoon with the unfortunate news of a broken modem. There will not even be intermittent internet on the boat, which concerns passengers whose loved ones were anticipating their ability to communicate while in Namibia Africa.

To say I feel deep-rooted resentment for our hosts on the Zambezi Queen who advertised WiFi during our cruising experience and failed to provide this amenity may be overly dramatic, but I'm not happy with this irresponsible hospitality and corporate negligence.

I am happy with my zebra photos though.

Thursday, February 27, 2020

Voyeuristic Tourism

"Who's exploiting whom?" Mike asked as we were discussing the Thursday morning excursion to tiny Kasenu Village in Namibia; a primitive African community home to approximately 100 natives. It was awkward intruding on the villagers' morning routine by gawking at a lifestyle so foreign to all of us tourists.

The villagers encouraged us to take pictures, including those of small children, while we skulked around their private living spaces. After the tour and a visit to the "magic tree of life," the tribeswomen danced to the music of the tribesmen. Handicrafts were for sale and donations welcomed. We left feeling extremely grateful for winning the birth place lottery.

Chobe National Park

Breakfast was served on the Zambezi Queen earlier on Wednesday to accommodate a morning game drive in Chobe National Park. After another round of immigration checks between bordering countries Namibia and Botswana, we were in our open-air Land Cruisers scouting out creatures large and small.

The day was packed with up close and personal encounters with frighteningly intriguing beasts. After hours of snapping pictures, it was fun to just sit back and observe these magnificent animals in their natural environment. Lions, elephants, zebras, giraffes, baboons, impalas, warthogs and a multitude of birds entertained us all afternoon. It was a wonderful safari, with and without binoculars and cameras.

African Elephants

It was a spectacular Tuesday on the Chobe River with plenty of wildlife sightings. We were enamored by the enormous crocs and Cape buffalo, hippos in water and on land, and birds of all colors and sizes. Just when we were least expecting, there was a rustling in the tree tops off on the not-too-distant shore and suddenly, around the bend, appeared the first few beasts in a herd of lovable elephants. What a thrill! And the little babies! Our first two river game viewing excursions were pretty amazing!

Monday, February 24, 2020

Kasane to Botswana

After a lovely breakfast at the Fairlawns Hotel, our group boarded a bus for the airport Monday morning for Kasane. Our short stay in J-burg paved the way for Botswana and then Namibia for a four-night cruise on the Zambezi Queen through Chobe National Park. While on the tender to the floating hotel, we saw hippopotamuses and Cape buffalo among the birds, crocs, impalas, baboons and some other unidentifiable creatures. It was a good first day for viewing game on the Chobe River.

Sunday, February 23, 2020

Fairlawns Boutique Hotel Johannesburg

After two long flights, hours on a Heathrow layover and many chapters in my book, we finally made it to Johannesburg. At first glance, it could be any city in the world. Upon closer look, it's a hub in South Africa! South Africa! Yay! And Bill's arrival on his seventh continent!

We checked into the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel in the Sandton neighborhood mid-Sunday morning. It's a beautiful, privately owned hotel uniquely curated in African artifacts and curiosities.

After naps, we hired a car and driver to tour the city and get our bearings. Patty and Mike arrived at the hotel around 6pm with other members of our party. We had a nice dinner for six and nightcap at the hotel before zonking out.

Saturday, February 22, 2020

Reading List Update

Since losing my website a few months ago, I haven't found a good way to track my library and share book recommendations. Until I figure it out, I'll share some of my recent title here on the blog:

Currently reading: Yemeni American man raised in San Francisco intrigued by coffee, growers and his homeland torn by a Saudi aggression. "The Monk of Mokha" by Dave Eggers. Non-fiction.

Great, quick read. True story and inspirational:
"Beyond the Bear: How I Learned to Live and Love Again after Being Blinded by a Bear" by Dan Bigley, Debra McKinney

Kinda entertaining, kinda tediously underwhelming: "Long Bright River: A Novel" by Liz Moore

Fun and fascinating travel read while on the Peninsula: "Antarctica: An Intimate Portrait of a Mysterious Continent" by Gabrielle Walker

We’rrrrrre Off!

Childhood friends, Maggie and Kevin, arrived in balmy Marco from the cold Midwest and stayed with us a couple nights before we all headed out to Miami International Airport for our flights to South Africa. Our safari adventure is hosted by the Marco Men's Club, so we will also be surrounded by some neighbors on the journey. Patty and Mike, long-time friends from NJ, will be joining the group too. We'll reunite at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel in Johannesburg Sunday night. As if the incredible wilderness in SWFL doesn't count, we're super excited to be getting back in nature again very soon.

Saturday, January 18, 2020

Miami Monday and Back Again

Zuma Mai Tai
MIA at 4am is a good thing. Happy with an on-time arrival from Chile, we breezed through Global Entry, grabbed our bags and waited way too long for the car valet. The adventure continued as we made our way to Marco on Tamiami Trail before 6am. It's a super scary route in the dark. Almost as remote as Antartica in an emergency. It's always good to get home. We found ourselves back in Miami again for some business and fun later in the week. We were able to work in dinner, with a toast to our good fortune, at Zuma. Thanks for following along on our magical mystery tour to the 7th continent. Cheers!

Sunday, January 12, 2020

The Journey to Santiago Airport


The Quest docked in Antonio Chile around 7am Sunday. After our breakfast and farewells to new friends and favorite crew, we boarded a bus for a day of sightseeing and airport transfers to Santiago. Passing scenic farms and vineyards in the hilly countryside, devastation from the civil unrest in the area was not obvious until we neared the city of Valparaiso. Then, the scars of protests were everywhere. Sunday morning was eerily quiet on the city streets but the destruction was loud. So sad to see a beautiful seaside city shutdown in ruin. Apparently, the mobs have subsided a bit as it’s now summer break. Once all are back on schedule in mid-March, the havoc could erupt again. 

The first stop was the funicular for a panoramic view of the Valparaiso. It was our second brush with death of the trip. Old, rickety and perhaps sabotaged by rioters, we all wondered what could go wrong as we squeaked up the mountainside clutching our valuables.  Once on top, it was a decent view but not worth the worry. I did buy an awesome alpaca hoodie for $22 though. 

Next, we went to a beach town, Viña del Mar and stopped for a quick museum break at the Fonck. Lunch was in the Casablanca Valley at Puro Caballo, a typical Chilean horse stable. It was a really special setting with some horse dancing to boot. Onwards to the Santiago Airport with five-plus hours to kill. If all goes well, we’ll be home in Marco before noon Monday.

All About Bill

Saturday was all about Bill. January 11th rolled around pretty fast. Last year we celebrated Bill's birthday in Miami and this year we celebrated in the South Pacific Ocean on Seabourn's Quest.

The weather is warming up as we head north. On our last day at sea, we enjoyed an afternoon of bright sun and hot tub on deck 6. We had it all to ourselves. It was a festive day for Bill. The staff on board had some surprises, while kids and friends texted sweet messages.

Bill had a massage and we enjoyed steam and sauna before dinner at The Grill. We were both sunburned! Crazy!

Friday, January 10, 2020

From Market to Skillet

I'll be super happy to get back to my healthier routine and lifestyle. Twenty-four days is a long time to be living it up! My bike is calling and so is intermittent fasting. Two more days of this decadence.

Friday morning put us into Puerto Montt. It's a large, developed city in the Patagonia coastal region, often called the salmon capital of Chile. A small group from the ship hopped an excursion bus and headed to a municipal market to meet Chef Richard Knobloch. At the market, we helped Chef shop for fresh fish, produce, herbs and spices. From there, we had a short ride out of town to Puerto Varas. A cool little town, modern and friendly, on Lake Llanquihue overlooking Volcano Osorno. A beautiful setting.

Our group watched (and some helped) Chef prepare a three course lunch at the Bravo Cabrera restaurant. The ceviche was sublime. The just caught seafood was expertly prepared and presented. The beet soup with kelp and smoky spices was surprisingly tasty. Farm fresh blueberries in a yolk, wine and honey foam was a perfect finish. An authentically local meal and day to remember!

Thursday, January 9, 2020

Castro Chile

It was another lazy day at sea on Wednesday reading, eating and relaxing. It's a tough life on board Seabourn's Quest. The scenery has been absolutely beautiful as we make our way up the Fjords passage to Santiago. The ship continues to host festive gatherings despite the fact that we're all sad to see this amazing journey come to an end.

The Quest anchored in Castro Chile around 9am Thursday. People were able to board tenders to the port shortly thereafter. Bill and I opted out of an excursion to simply explore the area on our own. The town had plenty of markets with beautiful woolen crafts, stray dogs, churches, buildings on stilts, restaurants and traffic. It was a bustling waterside city scene. After hours of walking and taking in the vibe, we found our way to the ship for a relaxing afternoon on the deck.

Wednesday, January 8, 2020

Chilean Fjords


As anticipated, the coastal Patagonia region is impressively rugged and vast with untouched beauty. Aside from one lecture in the morning, I was perched in front of a ship’s window most of the day. Tuesday and Wednesday are scenic cruising days as we travel north through the Chilean Fjords to Castro. 

This is the land of glaciers, waterfalls, rainbows and volcanoes. It is unspoiled wilderness and splendor. It is peace and quiet. It is a wonder of the world. 

Earth and Ocean, an outdoor dining option and second best restaurant on board, was our choice for dinner Tuesday. We bundled up in our expedition gear and blankets and watched gale force winds blow the sea and rain all around us in an attempt to scare us away. We hung in there, with a few other tables of adventurous diners, for the best dinner of the cruise. Piping hot lamb shanks and truffled polenta was comfort food at its finest.

Chilean Fjords

Tuesday, January 7, 2020

Punta Arenas

 Cruising through the beautiful Beagle Channel Sunday afternoon was a real treat. It is called Glacier Alley for a reason. The stunning scenery kept on getting better as we traveled to Punta Arenas while relaxing by the spa windows.

Punta Arenas used to be the known as the southern most city in the world but with development changing in South America, Ushuaia has arguably taken that title. 

We booked a last-minute excursion in Punta Arenas to make Monday in port easier. We took in two museums and other notable sights in the city. The NOA Victoria was a naval and maritime museum with replica ships from Magellan, Darwin and Shackleton. On to the Maggiorino Borgatello Museum, which reminded me of the American Museum of Natural History in NYC but on a much smaller scale. Then, off for Cerro la Cruz for a panoramic view of the city before disembarking at Plaza Munoz Gamero, the city’s main square. 

After the tour, Bill and I walked to the famous cemetery and browsed some shops before hopping a shuttle back to the dock. 

The present civil unrest in Chile is obvious throughout Punta Arenas. It was sad to see a plethora of spray-painted protests defacing buildings and monuments along with plenty of broken and boarded up windows. The pursuit of happiness is a bumpy road.

Sunday, January 5, 2020

Part Three: Patagonia

 Traveling through the Drake Passage to Ushuaia was a piece of cake, or, as the captain said “Drake Lake” instead of “Drake Shake.” Our good luck continued as we made it to the coast of Argentina without having to endure the notorious rough seas of the area. Even approaching Cape Horn, with much fanfare, I must add, was easy sailing. 

With reasonably calm seas, Saturday was a restful day on board Quest. After our amazing expedition to South Georgia Island and Antarctica, we are ready to take on some civilization and the beautiful sights of the Patagonia region in Argentina and Chile. 

Our bus left at 7:30am sharp Sunday morningfrom the Ushuaia pier. It was a quick ride out of town to the Tierra del Fuego recreation area. An enthusiastic group of trekkers enjoyed a three mile, strenuous hike around the Tierra Mayor Valley. A couple of guides, poles and ropes were a big help up and down the slopes. 

A nice lunch was waiting for us back at the ship. We departed for points north along the scenic Beagle Channel just after 1pm. Part three of this journey should be pretty amazing, too.