Go to Africa

The monkeys were goofing around in the trees near the outdoor shower as Bill soaped up before our Friday departure. I decided to take an indoor shower. Haha.

As the final stragglers made their way to the idling airport shuttle, the staff at Makanyi were in friendly formation, ready to embrace us with warm farewells. And so we begin the long journey home.

There is no doubt that the AmaWaterways African adventure was among the most unique and enjoyable travel experience for each person on our tour. It combined luxurious accommodations, seasoned hospitality and top shelf food and beverage service with the privilege and safety of viewing magnificent creatures in their natural habitats.

If you get a chance go to Africa!

A Wild Day in the Wild

Mike was the first one to notice the pack of wild dogs hanging around the watering hole while he was having coffee. Sean, the guide, made it a point to track the dogs on our morning game drive. We followed the dogs for awhile, found some hyena, wildebeest and impala but witnessed no real interaction among the animals. We waited patiently while the dogs snoozed, until finally, the elephants scared them away with a loud demonstration of machismo.

Sean jumped on a lead and did a "Ferrari Safari" for a surprise: a pride of lions. There were six large females and five cubs hidden under a tree taking a morning nap. Super sweet. We left the lions and had a nice coffee break with Amarula and little turtles before returning to camp for breakfast and a massage.

We were back tracking the dogs on our dusk game drive and experienced the thrill of the hunt and the excitement of a kill. The ten dogs methodically tracked an impala, killed it and devoured it within minutes. It was scary and emotional for us to witness the frenzy just feet away from the bloody mess. Once again, hyena and elephants were in on the action and it was a nail-biting scene of wildness.

We moved on after quite the show and we were somewhat late to a sunset goodbye cocktail party in the bush. A lovely surprise and beautiful setting was prepared in honor of our last night. On our way back to camp in the dark we were treated to a final sighting: a leopard right outside our gate. Dinner was enhanced by joyful enthusiasm and lively conversation, celebrating such an incredible day in the wild.

Rare and Beautiful Surroundings

Up at the crack of dawn Wednesday, the Makanyi lodge safari squad were greeted with coffee and warm muffins on the deck before climbing up on the Range Rovers for an early adventure in the bush.

Within the first fifteen minutes, we were chasing down a couple of rhinos. We were so grateful to sit and observe the enormous creatures for awhile. The perfect weather and amazing wildlife all around makes for wonderful excursions. The sightings of common and rare animals are equally thrilling. We are all so happy to be apart of this great trip.

With hours between game drives, the Makanyi lodge is a comfortable and relaxing respite for downtime with plenty of food, books, devices, random animal sightings and spa treatments. A real crowd pleaser.

The late afternoon game drive introduced us to one of the most prized sightings in the area: the endangered pangolin. It is the world's most poached and trafficked animal because of its keratin scales. Sean, our guide, and Lux (aka Lucky), our spotter, continued to meander through the wild and shared all sorts of information on our sightings. They found the perfect watering hole, filled with frolicking hippos, for sunset cocktails.

Back at the lodge, the fire pit was ablaze and provided the perfect warm welcome to our African-themed buffet dinner on the deck.

Nature and Whispers

 We said goodbyes at Joburg airport to the five people on our tour heading to other locales. After a short flight to Hoedspruit airport, the remaining group was divided between two camps. Twelve of us going to Makanyi Private Game Lodge were crammed into a van and endured a very uncomfortable hour-plus journey through remote South African reserves. Once at Makanyi, a luxurious oasis in Timbavati Private Nature Preserve, adjacent to Kruger National Park, we were greeted with warm hospitality and an ambience of creatures and creature comforts. 

Everyone was exuberantly blown-away by the rich accommodations at Makanyi and gleefully reconvened for a civilized lunch overlooking an animal’s watering hole off the deck.

We embarked on a sunset game drive just after 4:30pm. Two guides and a spotter indulged us in quality time as we observed our first leopards in the wild. We also had our first glimpse of rhinos, too. Traveling by Land Rover is super fun! Who doesn’t love forging their own path in life? TBH, I’m in heaven surrounded by nature and whispers. 

Sadness in Soweto

Quite a few travelers in our group opted to lounge around the beautiful Fairlawns Boutique Hotel on Monday rather than participate in a planned tour of Soweto. It was a dark, cold and rainy day; perfectly suited for viewing the depressed southwestern townships of Joburg.

AmaWaterways has a special connection to Kliptown, the oldest residential district of Soweto. And from the looks of it, the poorest. Ama has been contributing to the efforts of a goodwill organization, Kliptown Youth Program (KYP), which provides help to young people byway of extra-curricular activities centered around skill development.

It was a heartfelt presentation and tour of the KYP community, leaving many visitors with a conflicted emotional burden. Helplessness, sorrow and gratitude were all relevant feelings as we witnessed primitive living conditions, situations and potential solutions.

The Final Day in Joburg

The Monday morning tour of Kliptown provoked thoughtful contemplation of our riches and beauty in the US. The tour group gradually recovered from the depths of Joburg's seedy underbelly and came together for a delightful lunch break at Chez Alina in Soweto. The restaurant offered another wonderful story of people emerging from repression and achieving personal success and bringing others along. Lunch was prepared and served by an enterprising group of individuals and it was delicious. We were feeling all the feels as we were entertained with music and dancing and dessert.

Our group divided up after lunch, with half going to the Apartheid Museum and the others going to Cambanos Curio Centre for some retail therapy.

Back at the hotel, there was just enough time to change for dinner and enjoy a lecture on the gold and diamond legacies of Johannesburg.

Back to Joburg

 The men insisted that Lookout Café was a must-see. As the women missed afternoon beers at the café Saturday after the Falls, we were all in for Sunday morning breakfast. It was totally worth the visit. The food was off, but the venue’s decor and magnificent view justified the cost of the meal. 

Back on board South African airlines, we left Zimbabwe for Johannesburg Sunday afternoon. The Fairlawns Boutique Hotel was just as welcoming as last week. 

We six went to the Butcher Shop in Sandton for dinner and loads of laughs and then a nightcap at the hotel before calling it a long travel day.

Zimbabwe Adventures

Sopping wet but totally stoked by the Falls experience Saturday afternoon, the ladies walked back to the hotel for dry clothes and the men opted for beers at the Lookout Café. Patty arranged for a shopping excursion to a crocodile farm and then we all met for lunch at the Three Monkeys Restaurant in town. Bill ditched us for a helicopter ride over the Falls and the rest of us walked back to the hotel with another shopping detour.

With little time to rest, we were back on the bus for a short ride to the banks of the Zambezi River. A Sundowner boat was waiting to take us on a sunset booze cruise. We all were intrigued by a guest speaker telling the fascinating life story of famed explorer David Livingstone. The beautiful sunset was a bonus, too.

A Wonder of the World

The Saturday buffet at the hotel included a fine international assortment of traditional breakfast fare. All nourished and ready to go, our small group walked less than a mile to the entrance of the Victoria Falls footpath. We enjoyed the morning getting drenched by the powerful sprays while sightseeing along the longest curtain of falling water on earth. Not only were the Falls mesmerizing, they were thunderously enchanting and ever present by all senses.

It was so satisfying to be surrounded by people of all nationalities, united in awe, wonder and the majesty of nature. A feeling of peace on earth,
if only for a short spell through a rain forest.

Four Countries in One Day

Disembarkment from the Zambezi Queen was swift and smooth Friday morning. Once again we had to go through immigration checks in Namibia and Botswana before our bus journey to Zimbabwe. We were expecting a long passport process at the Zimbabwe border, but were pleasantly surprised by minimal chaos. 

Arrival at Victoria Falls Hotel was civilized. A stately and beautiful property with old English decor and amenities. Baboons were abundant in the lovely gardens and their antics lightened-up the travel day mood. 

Bushtracks provided the evening’s entertainment byway of an antique train ride over the Zambezi River and into Zambia, our fourth country of the day. We enjoyed cocktails, a light meal and a short hike to our first overlook of the Falls. 

No Internet on Zambezi Queen

We were welcomed back to The Zambezi Queen Wednesday afternoon with the unfortunate news of a broken modem. There will not even be intermittent internet on the boat, which concerns passengers whose loved ones were anticipating their ability to communicate while in Namibia Africa.

To say I feel deep-rooted resentment for our hosts on the Zambezi Queen who advertised WiFi during our cruising experience and failed to provide this amenity may be overly dramatic, but I'm not happy with this irresponsible hospitality and corporate negligence.

I am happy with my zebra photos though.

Voyeuristic Tourism

"Who's exploiting whom?" Mike asked as we were discussing the Thursday morning excursion to tiny Kasenu Village in Namibia; a primitive African community home to approximately 100 natives. It was awkward intruding on the villagers' morning routine by gawking at a lifestyle so foreign to all of us tourists.

The villagers encouraged us to take pictures, including those of small children, while we skulked around their private living spaces. After the tour and a visit to the "magic tree of life," the tribeswomen danced to the music of the tribesmen. Handicrafts were for sale and donations welcomed. We left feeling extremely grateful for winning the birth place lottery.

Chobe National Park

Breakfast was served on the Zambezi Queen earlier on Wednesday to accommodate a morning game drive in Chobe National Park. After another round of immigration checks between bordering countries Namibia and Botswana, we were in our open-air Land Cruisers scouting out creatures large and small.

The day was packed with up close and personal encounters with frighteningly intriguing beasts. After hours of snapping pictures, it was fun to just sit back and observe these magnificent animals in their natural environment. Lions, elephants, zebras, giraffes, baboons, impalas, warthogs and a multitude of birds entertained us all afternoon. It was a wonderful safari, with and without binoculars and cameras.

African Elephants

It was a spectacular Tuesday on the Chobe River with plenty of wildlife sightings. We were enamored by the enormous crocs and Cape buffalo, hippos in water and on land, and birds of all colors and sizes. Just when we were least expecting, there was a rustling in the tree tops off on the not-too-distant shore and suddenly, around the bend, appeared the first few beasts in a herd of lovable elephants. What a thrill! And the little babies! Our first two river game viewing excursions were pretty amazing!

Kasane to Botswana

After a lovely breakfast at the Fairlawns Hotel, our group boarded a bus for the airport Monday morning for Kasane. Our short stay in J-burg paved the way for Botswana and then Namibia for a four-night cruise on the Zambezi Queen through Chobe National Park. While on the tender to the floating hotel, we saw hippopotamuses and Cape buffalo among the birds, crocs, impalas, baboons and some other unidentifiable creatures. It was a good first day for viewing game on the Chobe River.

Fairlawns Boutique Hotel Johannesburg

After two long flights, hours on a Heathrow layover and many chapters in my book, we finally made it to Johannesburg. At first glance, it could be any city in the world. Upon closer look, it's a hub in South Africa! South Africa! Yay! And Bill's arrival on his seventh continent!

We checked into the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel in the Sandton neighborhood mid-Sunday morning. It's a beautiful, privately owned hotel uniquely curated in African artifacts and curiosities.

After naps, we hired a car and driver to tour the city and get our bearings. Patty and Mike arrived at the hotel around 6pm with other members of our party. We had a nice dinner for six and nightcap at the hotel before zonking out.

Reading List Update

Since losing my website a few months ago, I haven't found a good way to track my library and share book recommendations. Until I figure it out, I'll share some of my recent title here on the blog:

Currently reading: Yemeni American man raised in San Francisco intrigued by coffee, growers and his homeland torn by a Saudi aggression. "The Monk of Mokha" by Dave Eggers. Non-fiction.

Great, quick read. True story and inspirational:
"Beyond the Bear: How I Learned to Live and Love Again after Being Blinded by a Bear" by Dan Bigley, Debra McKinney

Kinda entertaining, kinda tediously underwhelming: "Long Bright River: A Novel" by Liz Moore

Fun and fascinating travel read while on the Peninsula: "Antarctica: An Intimate Portrait of a Mysterious Continent" by Gabrielle Walker

We’rrrrrre Off!

Childhood friends, Maggie and Kevin, arrived in balmy Marco from the cold Midwest and stayed with us a couple nights before we all headed out to Miami International Airport for our flights to South Africa. Our safari adventure is hosted by the Marco Men's Club, so we will also be surrounded by some neighbors on the journey. Patty and Mike, long-time friends from NJ, will be joining the group too. We'll reunite at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel in Johannesburg Sunday night. As if the incredible wilderness in SWFL doesn't count, we're super excited to be getting back in nature again very soon.

Happy St. Paddy's Day

It's a great day for the Irish, and everyone has their Irish going today.  The blogfriends Sarah, Page and Logan leave today for an adventure of a lifetime.  The girls are off to Japan, Thailand and Hawaii for about five weeks.  They are conducting a survey with one question in mind, "What is the most important thing in your life?"  They will be blogging the adventure, so keep them company and follow along here.

Nine Blonds and a Brunette

A friend from my Wall Street days, Melissa, turned the big 5-0 yesterday. I assembled eight of her friends and hosted a terrific luncheon. It was a relatively easy menu, starting with two of my favorite dips, tzatziti and grilled eggplant spread paired with whole wheat pita triangles.  For the entrée, because it was a Friday in Lent, I roasted salmon and served it with red pepper and corn relish.  I lightly seasoned newly discovered Israeli couscous with pine nuts and parsley (Whole Foods carries the pearl-size morsels in bulk).  Mesculin lettuce with asparagus, chives, grated carrots and honey mustard dressing rounded out the meal.  For dessert, I made the most amazing cake!  What was most amazing is that I made it without the aid of my Kitchen Aid, which after 18 years of regular use had to be sent in for repair.  I pulled together a basic yellow cake with ten eggs and a pound of butter, folded chopped strawberries into a basic pastry cream for the center filling, whipped up some heavy cream with powdered sugar and Voilà!  The best strawberry shortcake ever.