No Internet on Zambezi Queen

We were welcomed back to The Zambezi Queen Wednesday afternoon with the unfortunate news of a broken modem. There will not even be intermittent internet on the boat, which concerns passengers whose loved ones were anticipating their ability to communicate while in Namibia Africa.

To say I feel deep-rooted resentment for our hosts on the Zambezi Queen who advertised WiFi during our cruising experience and failed to provide this amenity may be overly dramatic, but I'm not happy with this irresponsible hospitality and corporate negligence.

I am happy with my zebra photos though.

Voyeuristic Tourism

"Who's exploiting whom?" Mike asked as we were discussing the Thursday morning excursion to tiny Kasenu Village in Namibia; a primitive African community home to approximately 100 natives. It was awkward intruding on the villagers' morning routine by gawking at a lifestyle so foreign to all of us tourists.

The villagers encouraged us to take pictures, including those of small children, while we skulked around their private living spaces. After the tour and a visit to the "magic tree of life," the tribeswomen danced to the music of the tribesmen. Handicrafts were for sale and donations welcomed. We left feeling extremely grateful for winning the birth place lottery.

Chobe National Park

Breakfast was served on the Zambezi Queen earlier on Wednesday to accommodate a morning game drive in Chobe National Park. After another round of immigration checks between bordering countries Namibia and Botswana, we were in our open-air Land Cruisers scouting out creatures large and small.

The day was packed with up close and personal encounters with frighteningly intriguing beasts. After hours of snapping pictures, it was fun to just sit back and observe these magnificent animals in their natural environment. Lions, elephants, zebras, giraffes, baboons, impalas, warthogs and a multitude of birds entertained us all afternoon. It was a wonderful safari, with and without binoculars and cameras.

African Elephants

It was a spectacular Tuesday on the Chobe River with plenty of wildlife sightings. We were enamored by the enormous crocs and Cape buffalo, hippos in water and on land, and birds of all colors and sizes. Just when we were least expecting, there was a rustling in the tree tops off on the not-too-distant shore and suddenly, around the bend, appeared the first few beasts in a herd of lovable elephants. What a thrill! And the little babies! Our first two river game viewing excursions were pretty amazing!

Kasane to Botswana

After a lovely breakfast at the Fairlawns Hotel, our group boarded a bus for the airport Monday morning for Kasane. Our short stay in J-burg paved the way for Botswana and then Namibia for a four-night cruise on the Zambezi Queen through Chobe National Park. While on the tender to the floating hotel, we saw hippopotamuses and Cape buffalo among the birds, crocs, impalas, baboons and some other unidentifiable creatures. It was a good first day for viewing game on the Chobe River.

Fairlawns Boutique Hotel Johannesburg

After two long flights, hours on a Heathrow layover and many chapters in my book, we finally made it to Johannesburg. At first glance, it could be any city in the world. Upon closer look, it's a hub in South Africa! South Africa! Yay! And Bill's arrival on his seventh continent!

We checked into the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel in the Sandton neighborhood mid-Sunday morning. It's a beautiful, privately owned hotel uniquely curated in African artifacts and curiosities.

After naps, we hired a car and driver to tour the city and get our bearings. Patty and Mike arrived at the hotel around 6pm with other members of our party. We had a nice dinner for six and nightcap at the hotel before zonking out.

Reading List Update

Since losing my website a few months ago, I haven't found a good way to track my library and share book recommendations. Until I figure it out, I'll share some of my recent title here on the blog:

Currently reading: Yemeni American man raised in San Francisco intrigued by coffee, growers and his homeland torn by a Saudi aggression. "The Monk of Mokha" by Dave Eggers. Non-fiction.

Great, quick read. True story and inspirational:
"Beyond the Bear: How I Learned to Live and Love Again after Being Blinded by a Bear" by Dan Bigley, Debra McKinney

Kinda entertaining, kinda tediously underwhelming: "Long Bright River: A Novel" by Liz Moore

Fun and fascinating travel read while on the Peninsula: "Antarctica: An Intimate Portrait of a Mysterious Continent" by Gabrielle Walker

We’rrrrrre Off!

Childhood friends, Maggie and Kevin, arrived in balmy Marco from the cold Midwest and stayed with us a couple nights before we all headed out to Miami International Airport for our flights to South Africa. Our safari adventure is hosted by the Marco Men's Club, so we will also be surrounded by some neighbors on the journey. Patty and Mike, long-time friends from NJ, will be joining the group too. We'll reunite at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel in Johannesburg Sunday night. As if the incredible wilderness in SWFL doesn't count, we're super excited to be getting back in nature again very soon.

Miami Monday and Back Again

Zuma Mai Tai

MIA at 4am is a good thing. Happy with an on-time arrival from Chile, we breezed through Global Entry, grabbed our bags and waited way too long for the car valet. The adventure continued as we made our way to Marco on Tamiami Trail before 6am. It's a super scary route in the dark. Almost as remote as Antartica in an emergency. It's always good to get home. We found ourselves back in Miami again for some business and fun later in the week. We were able to work in dinner, with a toast to our good fortune, at Zuma. Thanks for following along on our magical mystery tour to the 7th continent. Cheers!

The Journey to Santiago Airport

The Quest docked in Antonio Chile around 7am Sunday. After our breakfast and farewells to new friends and favorite crew, we boarded a bus for a day of sightseeing and airport transfers to Santiago. Passing scenic farms and vineyards in the hilly countryside, devastation from the civil unrest in the area was not obvious until we neared the city of Valparaiso. Then, the scars of protests were everywhere. Sunday morning was eerily quiet on the city streets but the destruction was loud. So sad to see a beautiful seaside city shutdown in ruin. Apparently, the mobs have subsided a bit as it’s now summer break. Once all are back on schedule in mid-March, the havoc could erupt again. 

The first stop was the funicular for a panoramic view of the Valparaiso. It was our second brush with death of the trip. Old, rickety and perhaps sabotaged by rioters, we all wondered what could go wrong as we squeaked up the mountainside clutching our valuables.  Once on top, it was a decent view but not worth the worry. I did buy an awesome alpaca hoodie for $22 though. 

Next, we went to a beach town, Viña del Mar and stopped for a quick museum break at the Fonck. Lunch was in the Casablanca Valley at Puro Caballo, a typical Chilean horse stable. It was a really special setting with some horse dancing to boot. Onwards to the Santiago Airport with five-plus hours to kill. If all goes well, we’ll be home in Marco before noon Monday.

All About Bill

Saturday was all about Bill. January 11th rolled around pretty fast. Last year we celebrated Bill's birthday in Miami and this year we celebrated in the South Pacific Ocean on Seabourn's Quest.

The weather is warming up as we head north. On our last day at sea, we enjoyed an afternoon of bright sun and hot tub on deck 6. We had it all to ourselves. It was a festive day for Bill. The staff on board had some surprises, while kids and friends texted sweet messages.

Bill had a massage and we enjoyed steam and sauna before dinner at The Grill. We were both sunburned! Crazy!

From Market to Skillet

I'll be super happy to get back to my healthier routine and lifestyle. Twenty-four days is a long time to be living it up! My bike is calling and so is intermittent fasting. Two more days of this decadence.

Friday morning put us into Puerto Montt. It's a large, developed city in the Patagonia coastal region, often called the salmon capital of Chile. A small group from the ship hopped an excursion bus and headed to a municipal market to meet Chef Richard Knobloch. At the market, we helped Chef shop for fresh fish, produce, herbs and spices. From there, we had a short ride out of town to Puerto Varas. A cool little town, modern and friendly, on Lake Llanquihue overlooking Volcano Osorno. A beautiful setting.

Our group watched (and some helped) Chef prepare a three course lunch at the Bravo Cabrera restaurant. The ceviche was sublime. The just caught seafood was expertly prepared and presented. The beet soup with kelp and smoky spices was surprisingly tasty. Farm fresh blueberries in a yolk, wine and honey foam was a perfect finish. An authentically local meal and day to remember!

Castro Chile

It was another lazy day at sea on Wednesday reading, eating and relaxing. It's a tough life on board Seabourn's Quest. The scenery has been absolutely beautiful as we make our way up the Fjords passage to Santiago. The ship continues to host festive gatherings despite the fact that we're all sad to see this amazing journey come to an end.

The Quest anchored in Castro Chile around 9am Thursday. People were able to board tenders to the port shortly thereafter. Bill and I opted out of an excursion to simply explore the area on our own. The town had plenty of markets with beautiful woolen crafts, stray dogs, churches, buildings on stilts, restaurants and traffic. It was a bustling waterside city scene. After hours of walking and taking in the vibe, we found our way to the ship for a relaxing afternoon on the deck.

Chilean Fjords

As anticipated, the coastal Patagonia region is impressively rugged and vast with untouched beauty. Aside from one lecture in the morning, I was perched in front of a ship’s window most of the day. Tuesday and Wednesday are scenic cruising days as we travel north through the Chilean Fjords to Castro. 

This is the land of glaciers, waterfalls, rainbows and volcanoes. It is unspoiled wilderness and splendor. It is peace and quiet. It is a wonder of the world. 

Earth and Ocean, an outdoor dining option and second best restaurant on board, was our choice for dinner Tuesday. We bundled up in our expedition gear and blankets and watched gale force winds blow the sea and rain all around us in an attempt to scare us away. We hung in there, with a few other tables of adventurous diners, for the best dinner of the cruise. Piping hot lamb shanks and truffled polenta was comfort food at its finest.

Chilean Fjords

Punta Arenas

 Cruising through the beautiful Beagle Channel Sunday afternoon was a real treat. It is called Glacier Alley for a reason. The stunning scenery kept on getting better as we traveled to Punta Arenas while relaxing by the spa windows.

Punta Arenas used to be the known as the southern most city in the world but with development changing in South America, Ushuaia has arguably taken that title. 

We booked a last-minute excursion in Punta Arenas to make Monday in port easier. We took in two museums and other notable sights in the city. The NOA Victoria was a naval and maritime museum with replica ships from Magellan, Darwin and Shackleton. On to the Maggiorino Borgatello Museum, which reminded me of the American Museum of Natural History in NYC but on a much smaller scale. Then, off for Cerro la Cruz for a panoramic view of the city before disembarking at Plaza Munoz Gamero, the city’s main square. 

After the tour, Bill and I walked to the famous cemetery and browsed some shops before hopping a shuttle back to the dock. 

The present civil unrest in Chile is obvious throughout Punta Arenas. It was sad to see a plethora of spray-painted protests defacing buildings and monuments along with plenty of broken and boarded up windows. The pursuit of happiness is a bumpy road.

Part Three: Patagonia

 Traveling through the Drake Passage to Ushuaia was a piece of cake, or, as the captain said “Drake Lake” instead of “Drake Shake.” Our good luck continued as we made it to the coast of Argentina without having to endure the notorious rough seas of the area. Even approaching Cape Horn, with much fanfare, I must add, was easy sailing. 

With reasonably calm seas, Saturday was a restful day on board Quest. After our amazing expedition to South Georgia Island and Antarctica, we are ready to take on some civilization and the beautiful sights of the Patagonia region in Argentina and Chile. 

Our bus left at 7:30am sharp Sunday morningfrom the Ushuaia pier. It was a quick ride out of town to the Tierra del Fuego recreation area. An enthusiastic group of trekkers enjoyed a three mile, strenuous hike around the Tierra Mayor Valley. A couple of guides, poles and ropes were a big help up and down the slopes. 

A nice lunch was waiting for us back at the ship. We departed for points north along the scenic Beagle Channel just after 1pm. Part three of this journey should be pretty amazing, too.

Last Day in Antarctica

Our last stop in Antarctica was Half Moon Island in the South Shetlands on Friday. It was an easy landing from the zodiac and a nice amount of walking through a chinstrap colony. Chinstrap penguins have what looks like a black strap going around the chin. Duh! We saw some chicks, too. We also saw a skua with her new chick. Super sweet.

Seabourn put on a 'caviar on ice' event to commemorate the final day on the white continent. A variety of vodka, champagne and top shelf appys were served out on the chilly deck with everyone bundled up in fur or blankets.

Now we proceed north to South America by way of the infamous Drake Passage where three oceans converge, making for one of the roughest bodies of water in the world. There are plenty of heroic stories featuring the Drake Passage during the early days of Antarctic exploration. Hopefully, we won't have a story to tell about the Drake Passage.

Untypical Encounters of All Kinds

After another delightful dinner at The Grill, Bill and I went to the Observation Bar for a night cap. Commotion was brewing on the port side. We grabbed our drinks and ran out to the deck just in time to witness a breaching humpback whale. This enormous animal was lifting its body up and out of the sea for all to see its glory. Incredible!

The most remarkable part of this excursion to Antarctica is the fact that, for nearly a week now, we have seen no roads, automobiles, hotels, cathedrals, billboards, city lights, throngs of people or stray dogs. A refreshing change of pace to simply behold untouched land and seascapes day after day. We even received a certificate of travel commemorating our remote latitudes.

Thursday was a lazy day on board Quest. High winds prevented a landing at our originally scheduled stop: Dorian Bay. Instead, the team was granted access to a sheltered cove near Palmer Station for zodiac tours. We opted out of the zodiacs for spa time, books and binoculars. We even took in a documentary movie. It was a little bizarre, but thought-provoking. "Encounters at the End of the World" examined the characters that live and work in Antarctica. An unusual group of people indeed. There's probably a high correlation to the characters that visit the end of the world, too.

2020 Off to a Great Start

January 1st in Antarctica was one to remember. After our tour of the Chilean Base, we enjoyed a beautiful brunch on board Quest. An exquisite brunch actually, with the best sashimi ever among many other delicacies. Our hostess, Irena, came over to our table to wish us a happy new year and invited us to Thomas Keller's, The Grill, for dinner at 6pm. Apparently there was a cancellation. Yay! It's a good year. Haha.

Our third kayaking excursion (first was canceled in South Georgia due to weather) was at 3pm. What an amazing experience. It was a beautiful cove, calm water, light wind, 40°F and we paddled for almost two hours. We saw two avalanches and plenty of dolphining penguins. Spectacular!

We returned to Quest just in time to watch the polar plungers jump off the boat into 32°F water. Sixty-one people participated in that crazy new year's day tradition.

Happy New Year 2020

The new year is upon us! It feels right so far. We saw a penguin egg, a penguin chick, 50 shades of light blue and it’s only just after 12 noon on January 1. 

We were up and out in the zodiac after a lovely but low-key NYE celebration in scenic Pléneau Island. Anchored at Waterboat Point, we jumped in the first excursion group exploring the González Videla Chilean Base. It’s primarily a tourist spot with a Chilean military installation. Lots of gentoo penguins nesting and seabirds flying overhead.

Happy New Year to the blog readers. I hope you have exciting adventures and a healthy dose of good luck in 2020.

Shared Experiences

Each day in the Antarctic brings new splendor and beauty. Whether it’s the penguins, whales, seabirds, icebergs or lighting effects from the 20 hours of daylight, people on the ship are united in the wonders of nature. Humanity united in positive shared experiences...now that’s a bonus!

Culerville Island

Feeling so accomplished after our kayak excursion on Sunday, we spent the rest of the afternoon being lazy with our books in the serenity area. It's a relaxing area for spa participants and those who just want to pay for an extra special, quiet spot with nice music and other therapeutic amenities.

Dinner was super fun with a crazy couple from St. Petersburg FL. Suzanne and Brian had us LOL all night.

Monday morning was mild and calm in Culerville Island where we geared up and enjoyed a landing site where we could walk around and observe the silly antics of the gentoo penguins. Whales were plentiful and we're all on the lookout for a scenic avalanche.

A Land Dedicated to Peace and Science

We sailed around the Antarctic Peninsula early this morning. The land was mostly covered in a blanket of snow. Icebergs of all sizes, shapes and shades of blue floated in the frigid water. Adélie penguins and seals dotted the shore. The magical and mysterious 7th continent is upon us and we couldn't be more excited!

After a hearty breakfast, we suited up and boarded the zodiac for our first kayak trip of this voyage. It was a thrill to step on the continent of Antarctica land and share a congratulatory kiss with Bill. The kayaking was surreal with little torpedo penguins jumping all around us and seals hanging out being lazy. It was such a peaceful and thoughtful ride in a pristine slice of nature. Here we are, the only place on earth dedicated to 'peace and science.'

Seabourn Quest’s Blog

Here is the link to the ship's Expedition Team's blog during our trip:

 https://my.yb.tl/Seabournexpeditions 

The blog is super informative and goes into greater detail of our amazing journey to Antarctica. The pictures are pretty cool, too. Enjoy!

The Southern Ocean

Folks aboard the Quest Friday morning were groggy after a rough night at sea. The captain had advised us of a potentially rough passage through the Scotia Sea, which is known for stormy and generally harsh conditions. He also warned the women not to wear high heels with their evening attire. A charming sense of humor.

Seabourn features plenty of activities for the cruising days at sea. I found the photography seminar and talk about killer whales very informative. There was a cooking demonstration that was just so-so. It was a good day to do some laundry, too, although everyone seemed to have the same idea.

The days are getting very long in the Southern Ocean; sunrise 2:52am, sunset 10:23pm. Luckily, we are equipped with room darkening window treatments.

Reflection Week into Antarctica

Boxing Day is officially in the past with a bittersweet sigh. Anticipation for a new year, new decade slowly presents itself with thoughtful contemplation. This is a good week for reflection.

Thursday was a bright, blue, 52° day around South Georgia Island. Our first sighting of icebergs was pretty thrilling. Too rough for a shore landing, we waited our turn for a zodiac tour along the shore of Cooper Bay by keeping busy on the boat. By busy, I mean relaxing in the Quest's sauna and serenity suite with reading material, lunching on the deck under blankets and heat lamps and taking in a presentation on the surrounding geology.

In addition to the king penguins, we were treated to a few other varieties: the chinstrap, macaroni and gentoo penguins were hanging out among the seals and birds on the southern end of the island. Fabulous viewing and a fabulous backdrop for considering new year's resolutions as we leave South Georgia Island for the Antarctic peninsula.

First Holiday Away

We were able to reach three out of four kids on the tele Christmas Day. Did my baby sound a little lonely or was it just my guilt for leaving Will alone for the first time over Christmas? He insisted he was happy and healthy while planning a ham dinner feast for one. It's a busy time for Will at work and I do believe he is content to rest with no obligations for a couple of days.

The ship made the holiday feel very festive with special offerings of food, drinks and decor. As we enjoyed brunch, we were advised that our kayaking excursion off of South Georgia Island was cancelled due to rough sea and strong winds. Luckily, we were still able to go to ashore by zodiac. It was another surreal walk along the coast among an abundance of wildlife. The seals, king penguins and birds of many varieties and ages kept us mesmerized and entertained.

We made it back to the ship with just enough time to shower and dress for our highly anticipated dinner at Thomas Keller's restaurant on board, The Grill. Everything was top notch and really delicious, especially the Snake River Wagyu beef Wellington. It certainly was a Christmas to remember.

Merry Christmas from South Georgia Island

It's Christmas morning in South Georgia! How lucky are we? Extremely lucky! I thank my sweet Lord every morning, noon and night for all the amazing gifts I enjoy in life. Health, family, friends, experiences and plenty of joy are blessings that I hold dear. And what an experience Bill and I are having in the Southern Hemisphere. Pristine landscapes and wild life frolicking on land and sea give new meaning to the word awesome.

Yesterday, Christmas Eve, was our first shore landing in days. It was a thrill to behold the majesty of mountains in the middle of the sea. I was moved to tears. The calls of seals and penguins made for an eerie and unfamiliar melody as we walked along the coast of Grytviken. There is a 15-foot-rule that visitors must keep in order to maintain a respectful distance from the animals in this area. Tell that to the animals! Haha. Curious beasts, birds and penguins came up close and personal as we took in the wonder of these creatures. It was magical.

While today is still young, I can chalk-off whales blowing and fluking from my list of must-see happenings. As Santa was milling about the ship, we didn't even need our binoculars to see an abundance of animals enjoying the cold water below.

May your Christmas Day be filled with love and wonder!

Another Day ay Sea

There's plenty to do on board the beautiful Quest. Aside from food and drinks on demand, quiet little coves are abundant on the ship. Monday found us in a comfy chair with our Kindles in hand most of the day. I binge read the last half of my book. There are also opportunities to be social and visit over tea or a glass of wine with all sorts of interesting travelers from around the world. We did just that in the Observation Bar after a lecture on Shackleton, an expedition briefing and before dinner. We like our days at sea.

The Satellite Internet on the ship is pretty lame. Service is spotty and uploads like pictures and videos just won't go. Even Instagram has me curtailing creativity for basic posts.

Sunday at Sea

More people surfaced from the depths of seasickness as Sunday progressed into calmer seas and sunshine. As we near South Georgia Island, mandatory briefings and informative discussions are filling the day. It's all about being a responsible visitor to the largest wilderness areas on the planet. The diligence to protect these environments is impressive. Bio security checks will be conducted on everyone and everything that will touch the ground in the region. This is an attempt to reduce the introduction of alien plants, soil, seeds etc. to these vast areas of land dedicated to peace and science.

It's beginning to feel a lot like Christmas. The ship's decorations are filling in and people are donning colorful and festive attire.

Day Two at Sea

Since our harrowing tender episode, the weather has been brewing up plenty of seasickness on board. Luckily, the the rocking and rolling only deprived us of sleep. We were able to enjoy a full day on the ship, including a luxurious treat at the spa, without yet having to resort to our prescribed patches. The sea is calming down on our second day at sea.

There are 416 people onboard, representing 46 nations. It's a friendly group with adventurous and thrill-seeking personality traits being common threads. The expedition crew consists of 18 professionals specializing in studies ranging from marine biology to geology to oceanography to videography. All convey majestic wonder and respect for the astounding wilderness we are going to encounter in South Georgia Island and Antarctica. Saturday's lectures included discussions on the plethora of birds in the region and the many different mammals we will see.

Christmas Eve will bring our first landing in South Georgia Island. We are beyond excited and grateful to experience this opportunity in nature.

Punta del Este Uruguay

The tenders were ready for morning boarding at promptly 8:30. We booked a shore excursion touring the upscale resort town of Punta del Este. Two museum stops were on the agenda: the Ralli Museum and the CasaPueblo, followed by a barbecue lunch at Lapataia Farm. The traditional Uruguayan meal featured a variety of grilled meat, the best empanada ever and, for dessert, a dulce de leche crepe. A real treat! 

Stormy weather was brewing up quickly, so the last stop on the tour was cut in order to expedite our return to the ship. It was a tad too late. About 20 of us were stuck on the tender due to rough seas and the inability of the crew to make a smooth and safe landing tethered to the Quest. It was scary, but after a nail-biting 30 minutes bouncing around, all were “carried” off the tender. A very exciting end to a civilized tour in Uruguay.

All Aboard!

We had a pleasant ride through the Everglades enroute to Miami International Airport for our 11pm to Buenos Aires. The car park was a little shady. Hope it's there when we get back. Hah. Luckily we were both able to sleep most of the flight and we landed to chaos at EXE. Ugh. An hour wait in line for immigration. Once on the Seabourn Quest, we were warmly greeted and welcomed to our suite with expedition gear and champagne chilling. We explored the boat and had a lovely dinner before turning into a comfortable bed.

JOMO

Fear of missing out (FOMO) is really a thing. Yes. Some people have a mild and reoccurring disorder of FOMO. It definitely involves an urgency to participate in perceived excitement and fun. And then there is the joy of missing out (JOMO). Yes. That’s really a thing, too. That involves the pure satisfaction of missing out on the perceived element of excitement and fun. Perceived is the operative word here. While I love celebrating the miracles of Christmas just as much as the next gal, I can’t help but feel JOMO as I plan for a December getaway. I’ll miss the family gatherings, the food traditions, the decorations, the cards, the parties, the lights and the festive clothes, of course. But I feel a tinge of JOMO anticipating an intimate escape in the Southern Hemisphere with my husband celebrating God’s gifts in nature this Christmas.

Daring Greatly

I've been so inspired by the work of Brené Brown. Her podcasts are so thought-provoking. I gifted her book, "Daring Greatly" to Will for his birthday and now I can wait to read it. Theodore Roosevelt inspired the author's title with his quote:

“It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.” Theodore Roosevelt

October 1st Already

Stay true to your journey. Always.

Flipping the calendars and adjusting the blinking clocks at home left me felling all introspective and grateful at this time in my life. Home from our 2019 road trip, I'm proud of all of our accomplishments, including:

- being able to live in less than 200 square feet with another human for over a month

 -sharing the driving of a five ton, 6-wheel truck for 4,030 miles

-embracing daily hardships, inconveniences and malfunctions

The ability to enjoy so many kind and authentic people and recharge my heart and soul with the profound beauty that only nature provides is the real satisfaction of our camping trips. I am truly blessed to have an adventurous husband and the enthusiasm of so many genuine people along the way.

Zen Friday

Ten Thousand Waves got on my radar somehow. It's a highly rated spa experience just outside the Santa Fe city limits. Our luck prevailed and we were able to book treatments with only a day's notice. Early Friday morning we found ourselves transported to Japan. The 91 stairs up the lush landscape to the spa immediately settled our busy little minds and put us in a Zen-like state. We started our day in a private outdoor soaking tub with a personal sauna and cold plunging pool. It was heavenly to be in the woods naked.

We had some time to kill before our next treatment, so we relaxed in a glass room with floor cushions, blankets and soothing headphone music. Next, a couples Swedish
massage, Ashi Anma foot treatment and finally a Yasuragi head & neck treatment. The best spa experience ever.

Ten Thousand Waves also has a lodge and restaurant on property so we went to the restaurant for a late lunch. The food, saki and ambiance were also an unparalleled experience. Such an enjoyable day all around and the last hoorah for this trip.

Day Trip to Taos

Thursday seemed to be a good day to take a ride to the mountains. Taos is less than two hours from Santa Fe, so we were off exploring again. We enjoyed the early colors of fall in the higher altitude, some shopping at the quirky stores and had a great lunch at a local place on the way to the ski resort. Orlando's for classic New Mexican fare, which basically consists of chilis: red and green. Taos Pueblo was closed for the afternoon, but I promised Bill I would dig out my pictures of the historic little village from my visit in 2008.

Wednesday in Santa Fe

Once again, we hopped the bus to town after breakfast for another day of exploration in Santa Fe. The Georgia O'Keefe museum was our first stop. I didn't want our tour of the museum to end. I love her work.

I was on a mission to find a bobble for my finger: turquoise set in gold. Silver still rules in the southwest even in this modern era of gold everywhere.

We scouted out the galleries on Canyon Road, had a snack at Beestro's and back to our urban campsite with tired feet.

We were pleasantly surprised by our fabulous dinner in the garden at Midtown Bistro on San Mateo. Maisy, the black cat, was delightful company. Our two Urber drivers provided great interaction, too.

Historic Downtown Santa Fe

It was a brisk 48° Tuesday morning. Now this is what I've been waiting for! By afternoon it was up to 78°. Perfect.

We hopped the #2 city bus right around our corner and paid $1 for a day pass. Yes, I'm officially in the senior status for discounts. The real Santa Fe was evident on our 30 minute ride to historic downtown Santa Fe.

The New Mexico Museum of Art was our first stop, then lunch at Del Charro on Alameda. The Loretto Chapel, with the mysterious staircase was curious, followed by a prayer at St. Francis Cathedral and a visit to the New Mexico History Museum.

Santa Fe is a beautiful southwestern city with a great vibe.

The Foodie Tour

Our new friends, Mireya and Michael from Sunday lunch in Carlsbad, invited us to tour their tortilla factory in Roswell. Before heading out of town Monday, we did just that. It was an educational visit and we bought some chips and tamales to go. We enjoyed the authentic tamales on our drive northwest to Santa Fe.

We rolled into Santa Fe NM mid afternoon and it felt like the first day of Fall. Our luck prevailed and we found a campsite in the heart of Santa Fe at the Trailer Ranch RV Resort. Hate that name but the space is perfect for touring the city. It's clean, friendly and no vacancies all week. There's a lot going on in this mountain town and we hope to find our share of adventure while urban camping.

After we settled in and relaxed over local promotional material, we urbered to Kai Sushi on St. Michaels Dr. Generally, we enjoy preparing meals at camp, but in the 5th ranked city for foodies, we just may take a break from the galley. By the way, NOLA is rated the #1 foodie city in the US by Travel + Leisure.

Sunday Backroads to New Mexico

Another rainy morning at camp and once again we had wet chairs. Silly us. The desert so needs this rain, we're happy to be a part of it. We put the wet stuff in the van and rolled out. First stop was Sunday breakfast at Magoo's Place on E Ave East in Alpine TX. A real Texas dive and tasty meal.

After a quick stop at Guadalupe Mountains National Park in Salt Flat TX, we stopped for lunch in Carlsbad NM. Bill found a funky Mexican carniceria, Juan de Los Lagos, and it was a more authentic experience than the Boquillas Mexico lunch. Hah. We met a sweet couple from Roswell, Mireya and Michael, at the community table and were grateful for the company and language translation assistance.

On to Roswell for an Autumnal Equinox stay at Bottomless Lake State Park. It was a scenic and peaceful ride on the roads less traveled. The sunset was beautiful. Again.

Saturday on the Move

R is for rain and Reata: both highlights of our last Saturday in Texas.

I loved waking up to the pure mountain rain enveloping the basin campground. It smelled so fresh! The hike planned for the day on Lost Mine Trail would be too dangerous considering the weather, so we decided to pack up our wet camp a day early and move on.

Among the waterfalls in the mountains and some frolicking animals in the desert, we drove a few hours to Alpine TX. Fun fact: Alpine is the largest town, in the largest county, in the largest state in the continental US.

Lost Alaskan RV Park came up highly rated on Google and they had space available. We plugged into shore power for the first time in five days. Back on the grid at the best private campground ever, we enjoyed the cleanest facilities, including laundry and a close proximity to town.

We had a late lunch at Reata Restaurant on north 5th St. The meal was amazing Tex-Mex fare. The tamale bread pudding desert was incredible! Alec, a local diner, kept us company at the bar. His wife owes Cheshire Cat Antiques in town. Back in civilization, we ran some errands and explored the antiques shop. What a collection! Back at camp, our equipment was dry.

Boquillas Del Carmen

The Boquillas Crossing Port of Entry opened for the weekend Friday morning. Bill and I were eager to explore a little slice of Mexico made available to us from Big Bend's border. We loaded up on water and small bills and parked our van in BIBE's desert heat. Humidity was up today and it felt particularly hot.

Once through immigration, we walked to the river bank and were greeted by a Mexican in a row boat. The man walked the boat, with us in it, across the river to Boquillas Del Carmen. Hah! We paid $5 round trip for the boat and $5 for the donkey ride to town and back.

As expected, we saw lots of crafts for sale, little kids greeting us with goods, dogs running about and an old run-down town. After a stroll through the village with our donkey handler, Evan, we stopped for a refreshing margarita. Falcon's, the other restaurant in town, was recommended for lunch.

It was a fun little adventure, but super hot. It took us, and the van, all afternoon to cool down. At sunset, we finally saw rain for only the second time since leaving Florida.

Canoeing on the Rio Grande River

Thursday's sunrise over the Chisos Mountains was a spectacular vision of color and light as we drove west. We had to be at Big Bend River Tours in Study Butte at 8:45am. Another couple from Canada joined us for the fun adventure canoeing the Rio Grande River. It was Ashley's first time across the border when we stopped along the river bank for a picnic in Chihuahua Mexico.

We launched the river tour at Big Bend Ranch State Park, which abuts the National Park. We enjoyed our short time in Texas' largest state park. Between the two parks and including Mexican's national park along the river border, this is one one the most magnificent, light-pollution-free, dark sky in North America for star gazing. And what an amazing show we've had each night, despite the moonlight! The Milky Way in clear view.